The Dragonfly

Last Update-03/13/2010 01:40 AM


Here is what a piece 4 x 12 x .025 and a piece of 4x 8 x .016 look like out of the box from wicks.  Isn't it BEAUTIFUL! I can already see this sculpted into an awesome flying machine.  What's even better is when you ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,





,,, move all the furniture in your living room and lay out the biggest sheet you got!  The little lady of the house loved this.

I am going to cut the 209 MM wing spar webs from the two edges of this sheet.




Cutting the spar webs from the edges of the .025 6061-T6 sheet edges.  Man, this will put a hurting on the ol' paw quick like.  I just used a panel gauge to mark the width and started snipping away.





After they are both cut out, you just roll them up and store them away until they are needed.  I'll use the center section for more ribs and rudder parts.  Is it to early to run around the house with these and make airplane noises?  Probably so.




Old Reba doesn't understand the whole camera thing. Just walks right in the way any old time.  Had to shew her off my metal as it was lying in the living room.  This dog isn't light and I figured she would have pressed paw prints into it, whew, luckily it was fine.  Almost had me a greyhound coat! (we lost Reba about 7 days after this photo. Cancer got her)




Here are the spar webs (the other is on the table for hole cutting) after they have been trimmed to size.  Now I have to cut the many 95 mm holes.




I have a pretty good size bench and this Harbor Freight mill/drill combo to do the hole cutting just like with the wing ribs.  It only took 35 minutes to cut all the holes in both spar webs.






Closer view of the working end of this beast. 





Click HERE to view a small video of the hole cutting process.  Right click and SAVE TARGET AS if a bunch of mumbo jumbo comes up for you.  You will see just how fast you can cut the holes.  It only takes a about 15 seconds to switch to the next hole.  You had better use those clamps or you'll end up with a spar that is wrapped around your hand or that hole cutter.






Now that I have the spar holes cut and the flanging tools built, I can flange the holes in the spar web. 





Close up of the process.  Took only about 15 minutes to flange the spar webs.





Here is the completed spar web.






Measuring and marking the holes for the many AD5 rivets needed on the spar caps.  Every 40 MM.  I just used a good ol Metric tape measure, taped it to one end and went for it.  You have to constantly check the planes and recheck yourself to make sure you thinking correctly while laying out the hole locations.










Now to drill a zillion holes.  I drilled all the hole with a #30 first.  After that I placed the spar webs on my long, flat bench and drilled down through the caps and clecoed the thing to the bench.  Then I pulled all the clecoes, deburred and then assembled the thing back together with the clecos again.  Now I can start to add the spar doubler, end root doubler, root fitting and the spar tip.



OK , I got caught up building once again and didn't get good shot of fabricating the other pieces. Here is the hole thing done and cleco'd together.




The spar doubler and wing strut brace.





Root end doubler and attach fitting.  I still need to drill a few more holes in the web of the root doubler for some pull rivets.




Strut fitting in place.





L angles in place on the front of the spar web






I enlisted a little help to clean the aluminum before the apllication of zinc chromate.





Shear web ready for zinc chromate.






Last spar ready for final assembly. 





Kayla with spar number one.  You can see spar # 2's shear web behind this one lying flat on the bench.